Three Tours in One Day!

Die-hard tourists that we are, we've tried to visit at least one attraction every day since we've been in Washington DC. Yesterday's goal was Ford's Theatre. Since nothing opens before 10am our mornings are pretty leisurely and we left the boat about 9:45 for our walk to the theatre.

On the way we strolled through the sculpture garden and had to wonder, "Does anyone even know what this is anymore?"

This sculpture reminded me of Ron in the Harry Potter books. "Spiders! Spiders! Why does it have to be spiders? Why couldn't it be butterflies?"

We found the theatre, talked with the ranger, snagged tickets for the 11:00am play (Yes, the 11:00am tour gets to see a play!), and chatted with fellow tourists. When the doors opened we walked through a display about the history of the theatre, Lincoln's plans for restoring the republic, and John Wilkes Booth's attitude towards Lincoln. Then we all filed into the theatre and watched a 35 minute play written from the theatre owner's perspective.

The play highlighted his anguish at the assassination, his guilt for not recognizing little clues, and his fear for the theatre's future. As he and the actor who was on stage that awful night re-enacted what happened, we gained a deeper understanding of the events of April 14, 1865.

The design of the recently opened National Museum of African American History and Culture was inspired by crowns used in West African art. We didn't have passes, but because of a generous tourist who had two extra passes, we were able to walk right in. The main floor is open and bright with artwork, donor plaques, and a gift shop. Finding and getting to the exhibition is a different story. One has to go down one level, stand in a long, vaguely marked line, and take an elevator down to the lowest level where the major exhibition starts.

This is a very moving museum and I'm sure glad we didn't visit this one on the same day we visited the Holocaust Museum.

Surprisingly, Malcolm managed to get an airplane fix here. This beautifully restored Stearman, one of the originals used for training the Tuskegee Airmen, has an interesting history. You can read about it here: 

Tuskegee Stearman

One of the original Tuskegee Airmen takes a ride in "Spirit of Tuskegee" in 2011.

By midafternnon we were tired and hot so we decided to walk back to the boat, but the magic of Washington DC wasn't done with us yet. Walking by a small door on the back of the Bureau of Engraving and Printing, we were invited in for a tour. (Our interactions with the guides in Washington has been delightful. They've all been so friendly and helpful.)

No photographs are allowed on the tour, but there is a little display on the way in. I know I couldn't even lift this pile of cash, but it's fun to dream about what you'd do with a million dollars, isn't it?

So that's how we did three tours in one day! Washington DC really is a great city to visit. Nearly everything is free, although you sometimes have to get a pass first. The locals are friendly, the sidewalks are clean, and the history, art, and architecture are stunning. I would highly recommend visiting our Capitol.

The Architecture of a Republic

National Archives

Our founding fathers felt that Neoclassical architecture reflected democratic ideals, so many of the oldest and most important buildings in Washington DC are of this style. I feel that it gives a sense if dignity, permanence, and respect to these hallowed institutions and I've always admired Neoclassical architecture. In that respect, Washington DC has been a veritable goldmine for me.

DC War Memorial

Jefferson Memorial

Arlington Amphitheater

Andrew W. Mellon Auditorium

Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian Columns; Pediments, Friezes, Architraves, and Domes; Marble, Granite, and Sandstone; Bronze, Gold Leaf, and Trajan; it's all here in spades!

Bureau of Engraving and Printing

Tomb Of The Unknown Soldier

There are also some Romanesque Revival buildings like The Old Post Office.

And this Beaux Arts beauty; The Library of Congress.

Sure there are some fabulous modern buildings here too, but I find the straightforward, strong lines of these older buildings to have an ageless attraction.

Have you been to Washington DC? Do you enjoy architecture too? Which buildings are your favorites?

National Gallery of Art

Most buildings in Washington DC take tourists in through some obscure side door, but the National Gallery of Art lets you walk right up these impressive stairs

and into this gorgeous rotunda. From there you can wander through the galleries, or follow the chronological progression of art history.

Several times during our visit I heard the words of my Art History professor echoing in my brain, and I was surprised at how much I remembered. 

Fra Filippo Lippi "Madonna and Child"

ca 1440

Leonardo da Vinci "Ginevra de' Benci"

1474-1478

Botticelli "Virgin Adoring the Child"

1480-1490

Thomas Gainsborough "Master John Heathcote"

1771

Turner "Venice: The Dogana and San Giorgio Maggiore"

1834

Monet "Woman With a Parasol"

1875

Renoir "Girl With Watering Can"

1876

Van Gogh "Still Life, Vase With Roses"

1890

Now, this painting is fascinating to me. Van Gogh used a red lake pigment that has faded terribly. Recent digital analysis has revealed that these were originally pink and red roses on a burgundy cloth with a pink background. You can read about it here:

https://mobile.nytimes.com/2015/05/22/arts/design/review-van-gogh-irises-and-roses-sheds-light-on-a-disappearing-red-hue.html

Toulouse-Lautrec "Marcelle Lender Dancing the Bolero"

1895

Picasso "Peter Manach"

1901

Wayne Thibaud  "Cakes"

1963

Out of all the things we've seen in Washington, the National Gallery of Art has been my favorite. The fact that we went back for a second visit should tell you how wonderful it was.

Library of Congress & The Capitol

The Library of Congress, with its fabulously ornate interior, was another great tour.

They have a Guttenberg Bible, 

lots of Thomas Jefferson's actual books,

the awe-inspiring reading room,

and classic mosaics. 

There was also an exhibition on "Exploring the Early Americas" with these Mixtec Incense Burners from AD 1200-1500,

and these 1589 maps of two harbors that we've visited on our cruise; St. Augustine, Florida,

and Cartagena, Colombia.

At the Capitol we visited the National Statuary Hall, also called "Old Hall of the House" because the House of Representatives met there between 1807 and 1857.

This painting by Samuel F. B. Morse (inventor of Morse Code) shows how it looked in the 1800s.

We also saw the Rotunda with statues of great American leaders.

Here is Robert E. Lee,

and Ronald Reagan.

Arlington National Cemetery

Arlington National Cemetery didn't start out to be a cemetery. The 1,100 acre plantation was inherited by George Washington Parke Custis from his grandmother, Martha (Dandridge Custis) Washington in 1802. He is the boy in red in the Washington Family portrait above.

The view from the home sweeps down across the Potomac all the way to the Washington Monument. Custis modeled the home on a Greek temple and displayed military treasures from his step-grandfather, whom he revered.

His daughter married a young lieutenant named Robert E. Lee, and when Custis died in 1857, Lee took over the management of the estate. Custis' will dictated that the estate's slaves would be emancipated by 1862, so Lee carried out his father-in-law's wishes.

With the coming of the Civil War, Lee accepted command of Virginia's forces, the family left Arlington, and the Union Army took over the estate as headquarters, camp, and eventually a place to bury the casualties. The first burial occured in 1864. Below is a view of Arlington House from the Kennedy plot.

We attended the changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and also witnessed the presentation of a wreath accompanied by "Taps" on a lone bugle.

I really enjoyed our visit to Arlington, not just for the history, but also because it is beautifully landscaped, immaculately maintained, and many of the plants have identification markers which increased my knowledge of eastern plants and trees.