Monday, August 27, 2018

Art Institute of Chicago

Sunday morning we arrived in Chicago, and after checking into our hotel, we hurried over to the Art Institute of Chicago to see the art.

Pierre-Auguste Renoir

George's Seurat

Claude Monet

Winslow Homer

Edward Hopper

Vincent Van Gogh

Mary Cassatt

After lunch, we stumbled upon these rooms displaying typical styles of decor, but in miniature!
These lovely rooms were created between 1934 and 1940 by Mrs. James Ward Thorne and her team of thirty craftsmen. They are all 1" =1' and are so perfect it's unbelievable. The museum has sixty-eight of her rooms and one could spend hours inspecting their amazing detail.




Chicago also has lots of public art like this mosaic mural by Marc Chagall

and this horse sculpture by Picasso.


Sunday, August 26, 2018

Fortunes Aground?

Our friend Keith Davie says we should call our blog "Fortunes Aground" since we've moved off the boat and are driving back to California now. Not a bad idea actually, but we'll keep it "Fortunes Afloat" for a while. After all, we were "afloat" a bit Friday...


Since we left Annapolis on Thursday, we've driven through the pretty green hills of Pennsylvania and western New York, and up to Niagara Falls.


We did the tourist thing at Horseshoe Falls on the Canadian side, including the Maid of the Mist boat ride. The falls were amazing, but the proliferation of tacky tourist traps was annoying, and they say it's even worse on the American side!


The tour boats drive right up into Horseshoe Falls and everyone gets wet from the mist.



Then this morning we took this tram ride over the Whirlpool,

drove through the charming little town of Niagara-on-the-Lake, and made our way west to Lansing, Michigan for the night.


Niagara-on-the-Lake was picture postcard perfect, and not at all tacky. I'm sure glad we made this detour up to Niagara on our way back to California.




Thursday, August 23, 2018

It's Official

Thistle is for sale.

Last week the crew here at Port Annapolis Marina backed her into the slings and put her on the hard. Then we rented a car and spent two days getting our car back from Brunswick. We drove over the Governor Harry Nice Memorial Bridge that we had sailed under last spring when we went to Washington DC.

For the last week we've been cleaning out lockers, packing boxes, touching up varnish, and putting lots of stuff on the free-cycle table.

Hopefully by Friday we should be ready to head home. We've decided to take a northern route, up through Pennsylvania, New York, Niagara Falls, and Canada for a bit. Then back down to Chicago and South Dakota, and west on I90 to who knows where.

We might not be "afloat" any more, but the adventures will continue, so please stay tuned.


Saturday, August 11, 2018

A Boat Delivery

Boaters often use normal words in odd ways, and the word "delivery" is just one example. To landlubbers it might mean having a baby, but boaters understand it as a fast, non-stop trip to move a boat from Point A to Point B.

And that's pretty much what we've done.


We've moved Thistle to Annapolis to put her up for sale.

Good weather windows are scarce during East Coast summers, but we saw a gap in the thunderstorms and went for it. We left Brunswick, Georgia on Saturday, August 4th, at 7:00am and dropped anchor here in Annapolis, Maryland Friday at 7:00am.

Our first leg was a fifty-one hour ocean passage from Brunswick to Beaufort, North Carolina. We decided to go up the ICW from there, and after a quick stop at the fuel dock, we headed north towards the Neuse River. By 6:30pm Monday evening we were anchored in Goose Creek, poised for Pamlico Sound the next day.

Tuesday's run took us across the Pamlico and up into the Pungo-Alligator Canal. This man-made canal is bordered by nature preserves, giving boaters a chance to see deer, bears, ospreys, and eagles. We saw deer, lots of birds, and hundreds of dragonflies, but no other boats.


After a rainy trip across the Albermarle, we anchored near Elizabeth City for the night. Leaving Elizabeth City Wednesday morning, we went through my favorite part of the ICW: the upper Pasqoutank River. Its narrow twists and turns between old growth forests of bald cypress, tupelo, maple, and pine trees is almost primeval. Again, we saw no other boats along the way.

Eventually the Pasquotank turns into the Dismal Canal. You know you've arrived when you see the lock gates blocking your way.

First you contact the lockkeeper on VHF 13 and let him know you'll be there for one of the four opening times: 8:30am, 11:00am, 1:30pm, or 3:30pm. We were early so we just touched the bottom with our anchor to hold us in position.


After opening the gates and waiting for you to enter, the lockkeeper takes your lines and loops them around the yellow bollards. Then he closes the lock gates, opens the upper doors to flood the chamber, and watches you raise about 8'. Then he opens the upper gates and you motor into the historic Dismal Swamp Canal. No need to hurry, the lockkeeper still has to drive 2000' to a bridge and open that for you too.


The water level in the canal had been inadvertantly lowered by almost a foot, so we banged and bumped along for almost four hours, hitting numerous submerged logs and branches. Then we did the whole bridge/lock thing again, lowering Thistle 8' down into Deep Creek.

Deep Creek connects to the Elizabeth River and ultimately Norfolk Harbor and Mile Zero of the ICW. We anchored for the night at Hospital Cove.

Early Thursday morning we lifted the anchor, washed off the mud of Norfolk, and headed north up the Chesapeake Bay. We saw plenty of boat traffic all day and night; mainly tugs pushing barges and anchored cargo ships. Thanks to modern electronics we know the speed and heading of these commercial vessels, but more importantly, we know their names so we can call them on VHF 13 if there's a conflict. Only two required a small course change, but they sure appreciated our co-operation.


Here's a shot of our chartplotter coming into Annapolis in the dark Friday morning. You can see five ships, but four of them are anchored, so we wove our way between them and into the channel, finally dropping our anchor in Back Creek just before 7am.

Six days, 577 nautical miles, three anchorages, two locks, five bridges to contact for opening, and 200 dead Chesapeake biting flies in the cockpit; all things considered, it was a pretty easy delivery.


Friday, August 10, 2018

Jekyll Island

Jekyll Island is a delightful stop along the ICW. You can stay at Jekyll Island Marina, or you can anchor south of the launch ramp and dinghy to the marina.

Our daughter had fun posing in front of the Clubhouse.

We all enjoyed seeing the beautiful architecture, croquet players, and peaceful grounds.


We had a grand time at Jekyll Island.


Thursday, August 2, 2018

Cumberland Island Third Visit

Two weeks ago, with our daughter's help, we painted the bottom of our boat and within minutes of splashing we were on our way to Cumberland Island for our third visit.

After parking our dingy at the guest dock, we visited all the usual spots: the old ice house/museum, the ruins of Dungeness, the huge oak trees, and the wild horses. Near the museum we even found a few shark teeth.



We always enjoy our visits to Cumberland Island. We like the birds, flowers, mushrooms, and wide open spaces.




We spent one day there and then headed up to Jekyll Island for an entirely different kind of experience. Please join us tomorrow.


Thursday, July 19, 2018

Georgia Is After Me Too

In my last post I mentioned that our daughter thought Georgia was trying to kill her. Heck, she didn't even witness a real thunderstorm.

We just had a doozie here in Brunswick, with lots of lightning close by. (Even three years after our lightning strike, I'm still a total wimp whenever there's a thunderstorm.) I did a screen capture of the radar map for you. See that big orange blob over Brunswick? We are right under that.

I also found this site that confirms my suspicions: Georgia is trying to kill me too. 

It won't be a slow painful bug bite, or disease, or heatstroke, like Katie imagined. It will probably be fast and a bit smoky, and they'll find my charred remains in bed with a pillow over my head.

But what a novel way to go!

Tuesday, July 17, 2018

A Special Guest

We had a special guest on Thistle recently and we certainly enjoyed her company. Our younger daughter from San Francisco spent 10 days with us and although there were some rough spots, she did get an accurate picture of the cruising sailor's life.


She mentioned more than once how we didn't seem to have a schedule and how odd it was for her A-type personality parents to use such vague language when referring to planned activities. She also dealt with all kinds of bugs and one evening she found a frog in her bed. Welcome to cruising, kiddo.



Her biggest surprise was seeing the boat on the hard when she arrived, but she pitched right in with the bottom painting to help us get launched.


We then meandered up the ICW with stops at Cumberland Island, Jekyll Island, and Brunswick Landing. She often wears a style of clothing called Lolita, which was popularized in Japan starting in the 1980s, and she managed to pack two dresses for this trip, so we had some photo shoots too.


Here she is at the St. Augustine Light Station. We made a quick trip there before we splashed, and had dramatic views over the town and inlet that day.



At Cumberland Island the Dungeness ruins made a nice backdrop. We also enjoyed seeing the ponies, turkeys, huge old oak trees, and, we even found some fossilized shark teeth.


Jekyll Island with its charming Historic District, made for another enjoyable day and more great photos. 


We also drove to Savannah and enjoyed its gracious style, beautiful homes, and a ghost tour. Maybe more than that though, we enjoyed the air conditioning at our AirBnB. As Katie said, "I think Georgia's trying to kill me and I'm going to die and melt into a little salty puddle!"

She went home with a sunburn, mosquito bites, boat bites, and a canker sore, so maybe she was right about Georgia trying to kill her. She texted me when she got off the plane in San Francisco, "I'm safely back in SF and it's beautifully cold."

Beautifully cold?
LOL