Wednesday, August 29, 2018

Iowa, Nebraska, and South Dakota

It took us two days to get from Chicago to Mount Rushmore. We drove through hundreds of miles of corn and soybeans sprinkled with wind turbines. Finally today we crossed the Missouri River into Nebraska for a bit, then crossed it a few more times as we worked our way north to I-90.



We stopped by the Corn Palace in Mitchell, South Dakota. Built in 1891, it is the community's arena and theater. Every year the exterior design (made entirely of natural agricultural products) changes.




Finally we arrived at the Badlands.


We saw goats and prairie dogs, and of course, the beautiful scenery.


We arrived at our lodge just in time for dinner. And tomorrow we do the bus tour of Mount Rushmore and Crazy Horse.

We stopped here too, but, just, why???

Tuesday, August 28, 2018

Cloud Gate


When you visit Chicago, you must visit Millenium Park. And you must visit Cloud Gate.

So we did. And we did.

Cloud Gate is also called the Bean and it's quite a popular attraction with tourists. It's usually mobbed with people, but Monday mornings are quiet.

Its undulating compound shape makes the reflections off the bottom wildly distorted. People do all sorts of goofy poses when they take photos, but we're just finally figuring out selfies.


Monday, August 27, 2018

Art Institute of Chicago

Sunday morning we arrived in Chicago, and after checking into our hotel, we hurried over to the Art Institute of Chicago to see the art.

Pierre-Auguste Renoir

George's Seurat

Claude Monet

Winslow Homer

Edward Hopper

Vincent Van Gogh

Mary Cassatt

After lunch, we stumbled upon these rooms displaying typical styles of decor, but in miniature!
These lovely rooms were created between 1934 and 1940 by Mrs. James Ward Thorne and her team of thirty craftsmen. They are all 1" =1' and are so perfect it's unbelievable. The museum has sixty-eight of her rooms and one could spend hours inspecting their amazing detail.




Chicago also has lots of public art like this mosaic mural by Marc Chagall

and this horse sculpture by Picasso.


Sunday, August 26, 2018

Fortunes Aground?

Our friend Keith Davie says we should call our blog "Fortunes Aground" since we've moved off the boat and are driving back to California now. Not a bad idea actually, but we'll keep it "Fortunes Afloat" for a while. After all, we were "afloat" a bit Friday...


Since we left Annapolis on Thursday, we've driven through the pretty green hills of Pennsylvania and western New York, and up to Niagara Falls.


We did the tourist thing at Horseshoe Falls on the Canadian side, including the Maid of the Mist boat ride. The falls were amazing, but the proliferation of tacky tourist traps was annoying, and they say it's even worse on the American side!


The tour boats drive right up into Horseshoe Falls and everyone gets wet from the mist.



Then this morning we took this tram ride over the Whirlpool,

drove through the charming little town of Niagara-on-the-Lake, and made our way west to Lansing, Michigan for the night.


Niagara-on-the-Lake was picture postcard perfect, and not at all tacky. I'm sure glad we made this detour up to Niagara on our way back to California.




Thursday, August 23, 2018

It's Official

Thistle is for sale.

Last week the crew here at Port Annapolis Marina backed her into the slings and put her on the hard. Then we rented a car and spent two days getting our car back from Brunswick. We drove over the Governor Harry Nice Memorial Bridge that we had sailed under last spring when we went to Washington DC.

For the last week we've been cleaning out lockers, packing boxes, touching up varnish, and putting lots of stuff on the free-cycle table.

Hopefully by Friday we should be ready to head home. We've decided to take a northern route, up through Pennsylvania, New York, Niagara Falls, and Canada for a bit. Then back down to Chicago and South Dakota, and west on I90 to who knows where.

We might not be "afloat" any more, but the adventures will continue, so please stay tuned.


Saturday, August 11, 2018

A Boat Delivery

Boaters often use normal words in odd ways, and the word "delivery" is just one example. To landlubbers it might mean having a baby, but boaters understand it as a fast, non-stop trip to move a boat from Point A to Point B.

And that's pretty much what we've done.


We've moved Thistle to Annapolis to put her up for sale.

Good weather windows are scarce during East Coast summers, but we saw a gap in the thunderstorms and went for it. We left Brunswick, Georgia on Saturday, August 4th, at 7:00am and dropped anchor here in Annapolis, Maryland Friday at 7:00am.

Our first leg was a fifty-one hour ocean passage from Brunswick to Beaufort, North Carolina. We decided to go up the ICW from there, and after a quick stop at the fuel dock, we headed north towards the Neuse River. By 6:30pm Monday evening we were anchored in Goose Creek, poised for Pamlico Sound the next day.

Tuesday's run took us across the Pamlico and up into the Pungo-Alligator Canal. This man-made canal is bordered by nature preserves, giving boaters a chance to see deer, bears, ospreys, and eagles. We saw deer, lots of birds, and hundreds of dragonflies, but no other boats.


After a rainy trip across the Albermarle, we anchored near Elizabeth City for the night. Leaving Elizabeth City Wednesday morning, we went through my favorite part of the ICW: the upper Pasqoutank River. Its narrow twists and turns between old growth forests of bald cypress, tupelo, maple, and pine trees is almost primeval. Again, we saw no other boats along the way.

Eventually the Pasquotank turns into the Dismal Canal. You know you've arrived when you see the lock gates blocking your way.

First you contact the lockkeeper on VHF 13 and let him know you'll be there for one of the four opening times: 8:30am, 11:00am, 1:30pm, or 3:30pm. We were early so we just touched the bottom with our anchor to hold us in position.


After opening the gates and waiting for you to enter, the lockkeeper takes your lines and loops them around the yellow bollards. Then he closes the lock gates, opens the upper doors to flood the chamber, and watches you raise about 8'. Then he opens the upper gates and you motor into the historic Dismal Swamp Canal. No need to hurry, the lockkeeper still has to drive 2000' to a bridge and open that for you too.


The water level in the canal had been inadvertantly lowered by almost a foot, so we banged and bumped along for almost four hours, hitting numerous submerged logs and branches. Then we did the whole bridge/lock thing again, lowering Thistle 8' down into Deep Creek.

Deep Creek connects to the Elizabeth River and ultimately Norfolk Harbor and Mile Zero of the ICW. We anchored for the night at Hospital Cove.

Early Thursday morning we lifted the anchor, washed off the mud of Norfolk, and headed north up the Chesapeake Bay. We saw plenty of boat traffic all day and night; mainly tugs pushing barges and anchored cargo ships. Thanks to modern electronics we know the speed and heading of these commercial vessels, but more importantly, we know their names so we can call them on VHF 13 if there's a conflict. Only two required a small course change, but they sure appreciated our co-operation.


Here's a shot of our chartplotter coming into Annapolis in the dark Friday morning. You can see five ships, but four of them are anchored, so we wove our way between them and into the channel, finally dropping our anchor in Back Creek just before 7am.

Six days, 577 nautical miles, three anchorages, two locks, five bridges to contact for opening, and 200 dead Chesapeake biting flies in the cockpit; all things considered, it was a pretty easy delivery.


Friday, August 10, 2018

Jekyll Island

Jekyll Island is a delightful stop along the ICW. You can stay at Jekyll Island Marina, or you can anchor south of the launch ramp and dinghy to the marina.

Our daughter had fun posing in front of the Clubhouse.

We all enjoyed seeing the beautiful architecture, croquet players, and peaceful grounds.


We had a grand time at Jekyll Island.


Thursday, August 2, 2018

Cumberland Island Third Visit

Two weeks ago, with our daughter's help, we painted the bottom of our boat and within minutes of splashing we were on our way to Cumberland Island for our third visit.

After parking our dingy at the guest dock, we visited all the usual spots: the old ice house/museum, the ruins of Dungeness, the huge oak trees, and the wild horses. Near the museum we even found a few shark teeth.



We always enjoy our visits to Cumberland Island. We like the birds, flowers, mushrooms, and wide open spaces.




We spent one day there and then headed up to Jekyll Island for an entirely different kind of experience. Please join us tomorrow.